Kaifeng, an ancient capital
Kaifeng, located about an hour by train from Zhengzhou, makes a great day trip from the capital of Henan Province, but staying a night or two gives you more time to explore this ancient capital of China.
I’ve done it both ways and much preferred the longer stay. Besides serving as the capital of China during the Song Dynasty (960-1279), Kaifeng was also the home of China’s Jewish population. Pearl Buck wrote about Kaifeng and the Jews in her novel, Peony. Indeed, that was the reason that took me to Kaifeng the first time. A friend in Beijing was Jewish and she wanted to see the Jewish quarter. Unfortunately, little remains of Kaifeng’s Jewish heritage. A hospital stands where the synagogue once was and a mosque sits on another important site. We had a guide to show us where the Jewish sites once were, and I’d recommend using one if you’re making the same search we did. Iron Pagoda On that trip, we also went to the Iron Pagoda, a structure that reaches up to the sky. The pagoda got its name because it is made of glazed tiles that are the color of iron. Built in 1049, it is considered one of the architectural masterpieces of the Song Dynasty. It is almost 187 feet tall, or the equivalent of 13 stories, on an octagonal base. It is very imposing. My second trip was just for the day when I went over by bus from Zhengzhou. I’d hoped to revisit some of the sites I saw the first time, but this didn’t work out. The bus trip ended at a different part of town, so I spend several hours just walking around there. I did enjoy my visit to the Memorial Temple of Lord Bao, a Song Dynasty official who was incorruptible. I particularly enjoyed the playful statues of seals and giraffes. Xianguo Temple Xianguo Temple (banner photo) is one of the 10 most famous Buddhist temples in China. The complex is smaller than many temples. It had been recently restored - the existing structures are mainly from the Qing Dynasty - when I was there, making it a most colorful place to visit. This temple was originally built about 500 years before the Iron Pagoda. During the Song Dynasty, it was the international center for Buddhism. |
Try Kaifeng's special dish When you get hungry in Kaifeng, be sure to try to the local specialty: hui mian, which is noodles with mutton. It’s very tasty, filling and cheap. |
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Copyright 2012 by Cheryl Probst. All rights reserved.
Copyright 2012 by Cheryl Probst. All rights reserved.